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RGB 增益，英文标识为 R（G，B）Gain ，功能是调整三枪的放大倍数，可以改变图像的对比度和层次感，当屏幕在显示图像时如果呈现明显的偏红（绿，蓝）时，可以减小相应颜色枪的该项值来修正。
RGB 截止电压，英文标识为R（G，B）CUTOFF 或 DRIVE、Offset，功能是调整三枪的截止电压值，在屏幕为黑色时，调整该值使三枪均不发射电子。如果在黑屏时图像有明显的偏向红（绿，蓝）时，可以调整相应颜色枪的该项值来解决。
另：
你將會用到的顯示器控制
大部份CRT跟數位投影機或電視以及LCD，DLP，及電漿平面顯示器有這些必要的控制來完成灰階校正。在你的投影機或電視裏，我們將會調整四個控制來設定正確的灰階。知到這些控制的位置並熟悉它們是很重要的:
* 亮度控制亮度: 這個控制是用來調整黑色的位準。亮度控制設定太低會造成暗部細節變成黑色(稱之為” black crush”)。亮度控制設定太高會讓黑色看起來像灰色。亮度控制會同時影響所有顏色。
* 對比控制對比: 這個控制是用來調整白色位準或是說是亮度峰值。對比控制設定太低會造成昏暗的畫面。對比控制設定太高會造成亮部細節變成全白(稱之為” white clipping”)或是blooming/smearing。對比控制同時影響所有的顏色。有些製造商稱之為”畫質控制(Picture)”。
* RGB Lowend控制: 這個控制是用來分別調整紅、綠、藍三色在整個灰階裏面較暗的部份。可以把它想成是單獨各色的亮度控制。 製造商大多使用不同的名稱，如'Cut'、'Cutoff'、及'Bias'是最常被用到的。在這份手冊裏，我們把這些控制統稱為'RGBLo我們nd' 控制以避免混淆。
* RGB HighEnd控制: 這個控制是用來分別調整紅、綠、藍三色在整個灰階裏面較亮的部份。可以把它想成是單獨各色的對比控制。 製造商大多使用不同的名稱，如'Drive'以及'Gain'是最常被用到的。在這份手冊裏，我們把這些控制統稱為'RGBHighEnd'控制以避免混淆。
所有的顯示器都有亮度控制和對比控制。如果你的投影機或電視對紅、綠、以及藍，有RGBLowend 及 RGBHighEnd控制，那麼你就能夠校正你的灰階。
既然不同製造廠對RGBLowend 及 RGBHighEnd控制有不同的名稱，請參考你的使用者手冊同時找灰階、白平衡、或色溫調整看看在你的顯示器它們是如何稱呼的。如果你擁有CRT投影機，你可以在我們網站上的Tech Tips 找到相關的手冊。
對於這兩項控制，最常用的名稱如下:
RGBLowend: Bias，Offset，Cuts，Cutoff，Sub-亮度，RGB 亮度
RGBHighEnd: Drive，Gain，Sub-對比，RGB 對比
為了讓CRT投影機擁有者更容易處理，下列是各個CRT 投影機製造廠對 RGBLo我們nd 及 RGBHighEnd所用的名稱:
* Ampro: Sub-Brite，Sub-對比
* Barco: Cutoff，Drive
* Dwin: Level，Gain
* Electrohome ECP: G2，Drive
* Electrohome Marquee/Madrigal: G2，Drive
* NEC PG/執行co: B，W
* NEC XG/執行co: BLK，WHT
* Runco: 請用我們的 Runco cross-reference table 找到是那家製造商製做你的Runco 投影機，然後參加其它列在這兒的廠商。
* Seleco: Black，White
* Sony: Bias，Gain
http://www.isf.com.tw/tech_article/kal_guide.html [需要 cross wall 才能打开:p]
英文：http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457
另一篇，英文：http://www.arcadecollecting.com/info/Adjusting_monitor_color.txt
What you have is a grey-scale tracking problem. RGB colour systems
have no "tint" (or chroma demodulators).
What this means is that the color balance is determined entirely by
the digital video generators. These are generally rock solid balanced
outputs and it is unusual/nearly impossible for them to drift "off"
from correct mixture/levels.
The fault you see is the picture tubes color "temperature", being
warmer (more red) than the other two.
The best way to adjust for this is to 1st disconnect the games color
and sync cables from the monitors input jack on the pink one, and one
of the good ones, with power off. This should be done after they have
been on for an hour or so, to make sure they're warmed-up properly.
They can be a little off when cold, but should be adjusted only when
stable. It's important to do this 'cause you want to see the monitors
own "black floor" or no-signal condition, not a 8-10% "driven" one.
After power-up you should see either grey, white, or black screens on
the 2 idle monitors (this is arbitrary, and depends on the monitors
no-signal design, but should be black/dark)
The reason for disconnecting the good one is simply to have a visual,
idle reference, for comparison. Your game should contain 3
Wells-Gardner K7000 chassis monitors, a modern, common monitor.
CUT-OFF BALANCE:
This must be done first, to correct/verify the monitor/tubes basic
setting.
Monitors have between 7 and 12 different adjustments for their
lighting or "luminance" circuits, depending on the designer, and
quality. W-G's have either 8 or 9. Color tracking adjustments should
be done in low-light viewing conditions, a dark room and a trouble
light (so you can see the adjustments behind the chassis/tube). BE
CAUTIOUS, there are high voltages in the areas where these controls
are located, plastic gloves are a good idea (it's dirty too), as are
plastic or insulated tools. Small trimmer pots which are used for many
adjustments are very fragile and should never be pushed, forced or
bent during adjustment.
The main control is called the screen control, which adjusts the G2
grid voltage of all 3 guns (at once) to the level where diagonal
"retrace" lines which you shouldn't see, are effectively erased by the
sets built in "blanking" mixers. You will usually find this on the
Flyback transformer assembly, beside/above the focus control, and it
is safe to adjust by hand. It should be marked where it was factory
set, but if not do this or make a note of it.
This control is better called a blanking knob for this reason, but
some (other) monitors also use it as a (the only) brightness control.
(It can be turned down lower than necessary for it's main purpose) You
will probably have to turn it up to see some light on the screen. As
you turn it down, the light on the screen should fade from white to
grey to dark grey and then black. This is a very important first-test,
for if you see any color-tinge in the grey-shades, or are left with
(in this case) a weakly visible red screen at the fade-off point, you
have a cut-off balance problem.
Cut-off balance is controlled by 3 individual "cut off" knobs on the
neck board of the picture tube. You may need a dust brush to wipe off
the coat of dust to read which one is which, (they're marked on the
board) DO NOT get these confused with the OTHER 2 or 3 "Drive"
controls !
One "cut off" is for each color, red, green and blue. When the screen
light is nearly extinguished, the darkest grey-shade should not show
any color, so if red is still there, it's cut-off should be turned
down _just_ till it's gone. If the red cut-off control is _already_
all the way down, then the green and blue cut off's need to be turned
_up_ to give an acceptable grey.
With this test/adjustment completed, re-check the low grey shades by
turning the "Screen" knob slowly up and down, and re-adjusting the
"cut offs" if necessary. Return the screen control to the position
where it was, checking against the idle good monitor for brightness.
Cut-off can vary as picture tubes age, and your green/blue guns may
have weakened, but we are not through yet. You may have NOT had any
cut-off problem :)
Turn off the game and reconnect the games color cables, and back on
again. If you did identify/correct a cut-off problem, it's now
probable that the white-balance is a bit off, or you may have had a
white-balance problem to begin with.
WHITE BALANCE:
White balance is best done with a test signal, such as a
color-pallette test screen or a white-grid pattern that your games
self-test should provide. If it doesn't, don't despair, the
marching-army screen that your games attract mode produces is fine, if
putting unused credits will "hold" it, but I believe ROMSTAR has the
test screens built in to deal with this problem.
You should now see nicely balanced dark greys, but may notice brighter
whites are slightly pink or blue/green :( To deal with this adjustment
you use the available "Drive" controls to provide the right 'volume'
or amplitude balance for the highly-illuminated whiter areas.
These are alongside the cut-off controls on the neckboard, but on many
monitor versions there are only 2 of them.
BLUE/GREEN BRIGHTS:
If you had to turn up the green and blue "cut-offs" previously, or
turn down the red, you may not be able to turn down both green and
blue drives to compensate, because they're not both there !! On some
monitors the green drive is omitted, or fixed at a standard value. In
this case, just turn up the red drive to balance, and adjust the blue
slightly, only if necessary.
PINK BRIGHTS:
If you found the cut-off's to be OK previously, you may still find the
pinkish-white symptom to be caused by the red "Drive" setting being
too high, so just turn it down a little to balance.
Just re-check your brightness, contrast(or "black level") and focus
adjustments before your finished!
 供感兴趣但是还不是很了解的的玩家参考。 |
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发表于 2011-2-14 01:07
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